Blog

Beyond the Wall

Tips, stories, and training advice for smarter climbing.

Climber working through a structured training session on an indoor wall.
Training Plans10 min

How to Train for Rock Climbing

A practical guide to training for rock climbing for beginner and intermediate climbers: technique, finger strength, endurance, weekly structure, and recovery without generic advice.

Alex VoitMay 1, 2026
Chalked climber hand gripping a small hold on an indoor wall — finger strength and load management in climbing.
Training Science12 min

How to Train Fingers for Climbing Without Getting Injured

A practical model for balancing finger strength, tendon adaptation, recovery, and microdamage so climbing progress does not turn into overuse.

Alex VoitApril 23, 2026
Climber hanging on a wooden fingerboard with controlled half-crimp position during a beginner strength session.
Training Science10 min

Fingerboard for Beginners: How to Safely Progress to Max Hangs

Most finger injuries start with one mistake: training for max hangs before the tissue is ready. Here is the five-phase progression that actually works.

Alex VoitApril 22, 2026
Close-up of a climber's hand on a fingerboard during a finger strength training session.
Training Science6 min

Finger Training in Climbing: How Fingerboard Hangs Work and Why Progress Can Stall

Fingerboard hangs are not a universal answer. Understanding what they actually develop, and when to change the stimulus, is what separates real progress from spinning your wheels.

Alex VoitApril 20, 2026
Beginner climber following a climbing training plan on an indoor wall.
Training Plans6 min

Climbing Training Plan for Beginners: What to Focus on First

A beginner climbing training plan should build movement quality, strength foundations, and recovery habits before chasing advanced intensity.

Alex VoitApril 13, 2026
Close-up climbing shoe hero image for a practical guide to choosing climbing shoes.
Gear Guide10 min

Your Climbing Shoes Guide

Learn how to choose climbing shoes based on purpose, sizing, fit, asymmetry, closure, rubber, and budget so you buy a pair that actually helps you climb better.

Alex VoitApril 5, 2026
Climber progressing through a structured training journey.
Training Science12 min

The Path to Growth: How to Progress in Climbing Without Harming Your Body

Discover the proven training periodization system used by elite athletes. Learn the 6 phases of safe and sustainable climbing progress from building a solid base to peaking for your goals.

Alex VoitDecember 19, 2025
Athletic movement comparison between basketball stance and climbing movement.
Movement & Technique1 min

Basketball vs Climbing: Playing on the "Low Level"

A personal observation about movement, body position, and the hidden connection between basketball and climbing footwork.

Alex VoitDecember 6, 2025
Climber reflecting on mindset and performance progression.
Mental Training4 min

Climber's Mindset: The hidden levels that unlock your Next Grade

Learn to identify the bottleneck limiting your climbing growth. Discover the ATPEM model - a system that helps break repetitive cycles and accelerate progress through strategic thinking.

Alex VoitNovember 29, 2025
Climber training endurance on a steep route.
Training Science4 min

Climbing Endurance & Critical Force: the complete practical guide

To train endurance for harder routes, you need to understand how different training zones work and what actually drives progress. Learn about Critical Force, training zones, and how to build sustainable climbing power.

Alex VoitNovember 7, 2025
Climber facing fear on lead and working on confidence.
Mental Training5 min

Fear and Efficiency in Climbing: How to Overcome the Fear of Falling

Overcome fear of falling in rock climbing with proven mental training techniques. Learn the Yerkes-Dodson Law, safe falling methods, and psychological strategies to build confidence and manage climbing anxiety effectively.

Alex VoitNovember 1, 2025
Hands on a hold during a grip strength analysis article.
Training Science3 min

Short-Term and Long-Term Factors Affecting Grip Strength in Climbing

When we fail to hold onto a hold, most of us instantly blame one thing - finger strength. But is that really the main reason? Let's dig deeper through the lens of physics and force application.

Alex VoitOctober 22, 2025